斯洛伐克逐酒趣 x 來自天堂的葡萄酒 Slovakian Winery – ELESKO

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斯洛伐克的Modra是著名產酒區，靠近首都布拉提斯拉瓦，搭乘火車非常便捷，但因為行程安排有點緊湊，我們沒有算好時間，而沒有多餘時間深入逛Modra這個可愛小鎮，即使如此，今天參訪的這座ELESKO酒莊仍相當值回票價，很推薦給想要初步認識斯洛伐克葡萄酒的朋友。

Modra is an important wine producing region in Slovakia, very close to the capital of Slovakia-Bratislava. But it was a little bit complicated to achieve there. We took a train, changed to a bus, then took a taxi. Even it was very hard, I still felt lucky that we finally arrived ELESKO, one of the most modern wineries in Central Europe.

Infos:

website: http://www.elesko.sk/
phone number: +421 2 20 92 26 40

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ELESKO雖然在2009年才成立，至今(2015年)才邁入第六年，卻已經佔領斯洛伐克葡萄酒的多數市場，甚至被選為"世界一千瓶好酒名錄"中，由此可見ELESKO歷史雖短，卻是相當具開發潛力的新型酒莊。

ELESKO produces lots of good quality wine, most of them are selled in the domestic market. It entered Slovakian market since 2009, and current annual produces 600,000 bottles.

Even ELESKO doesn’t have a long history, in 2015, there are already two bottles of ELESKO being selected into the list of “1000 meilleurs vins du monde" by the union of French Oenologists. ELESKO is being seen as a promising winery in Slovakia.

 

 

ELESKO的商標是一快長相奇異的石頭，在詢問之下，原來是創辦者購買了這塊相當巨大的白色石灰岩，並且在中央鑿了一個洞，稱之為「上帝之眼」，相信這是一個能夠平凡創造成不平凡的地方。

ELESKO建築外觀摩登，白色建築，乍看以為是座博物館，實際卻是間結合藝術、餐廳與葡萄酒生產的複合式酒莊。

What does “ELESKO" mean?

In Hungarian word, ELESKO means sharp stone. It is named after the stone that the owner of ELESKO bought. He believes that ELESKO is a place where ordinary things are done extraordinarily well.

And also ELESKO is the name of a nearby Slovakian castle.

 

一進門就是葡萄酒吧，左側為ELESKO的當代藝術展覽，觀賞完藝術作品、再享用一杯好酒，豈不是一個超完美享受？

這次我們一行五人，報名了ELESKO的品飲tour，行程包含：歷史講解、酒窖參觀、葡萄園參觀以及實際品飲。預約報名tour前，ELESKO負責人會寄一張單子供你選擇，可自行挑選當天想要品飲的6支酒。

The wine tasting tour of ELESKO includes: Slovakian wine region introducing , cave visiting, vineyard visiting and wine tasting. Before tour, the operator of ELESKO will send you a wine list, to let you choose 6 wines which you’ll taste in the tasting time.

The guide is very nice and professional. He told us the history of ELESKO, how they produce wine. All the explanation are clear and easy to understand.

ELESKO的規模非常大，令人難以置信這是經營才短短6年的新潮酒莊，橡木桶、不鏽鋼釀酒槽一整排像在閱兵，相比於葡萄酒傳統釀造國-法國，斯洛伐克才短短幾年就能做到如此規模，真是令人折服。

但也因為酒莊規模太大，在釀造的控制上相當倚賴機器，有恆溫控制系統、還有高價進口自澳洲的數據檢測儀。

The scale of ELESKO is huge, it’s hard believed that the history of ELESKO is only 6 years!! They use high technology to guarantee there wine’s high quality.

在法國酒莊實習時，我曾經協助老闆進行葡萄汁分析，檢測葡萄汁的甜度與酸度，以決定葡萄採收的時間，必須要一杯杯人工檢測。

但是這台機器居然只要30秒，就能得到葡萄汁的所有精闢數據！雖然有人說不相信機器的檢測效果，但對於ELESKO這樣龐大的酒莊而言，「效率」是相當重要的事。

It’s amazing that with this machine, it takes only “30 seconds" to get all the information from grape juice. The purpose is to know when will be the perfect time to do grape-harvesting.

 

即使是葡萄榨汁機也是大得驚人，ELESKO的規模真是不容小覷

在參觀完機械化工廠後，我們便帶去參觀掛滿葡萄的葡萄園，由於季節正逢葡萄採收季，此時葡萄正甜，導遊摘了不少葡萄讓我們品嘗，白葡萄、紅葡萄，吃的好過癮！

 

吃完新鮮葡萄後，我們又再次被帶領到工廠內，品嘗鮮榨葡萄汁，以及發酵程度不同的葡萄汁/原液，體驗葡萄從果汁逐漸變為葡萄酒的過程，相當有趣。

想像你才剛在葡萄園裡吃下新鮮剛採的各種葡萄，白的嚐一點、紅的吃一些，時光機快轉，喝到榨汁機剛產出的新鮮葡萄果汁，時光機再轉，葡萄汁半發酵，時光機再再轉，葡萄汁已完全發酵，那風味可是徹徹底底的完全不同啊！

We tasted a lot of different kind of grapes, freshly picked in the vineyard. Then we were taken to the cave again, to taste some just expressed grape juice and different level of fermentation wine. It was very interesting, to experience and learn how grapes turn into wine.

這可是直接從不鏽鋼釀造統取出的葡萄酒原液喔！如果不親自到酒莊參觀，根本很難品嘗到不同程度的發酵原液。

Tour的最後，就是眾所期待(我超期待!!)的品飲時間，一次有6支酒供品嘗，導覽會先一支一支的帶你解說、品飲，你可以詢問所有關於葡萄酒品嘗的技巧與方式。

At the end of the tour, is the wine tasting (The most important part!!). There were 6 different wines for tasting. The guide will introduce each wine and teach you some simple wine tasting skills.

其中有幾支重複的酒，從左到右，分別是：
Gewurztraminer 2014
Aurelius 2013
Palava 2014
Muskat Zlty 2011
Palava 2011
Lipovina Brut “Jeroboam"

我們這次選擇的都是白酒。我個人相當喜歡Aurelius 2013，花香濃郁，初始香氣與花香富饒且微酸的麗絲玲頗像，但礦物與堅果口感沒那麼明顯，取而代之的是香甜順口的果香，尾韻頗長。

其二喜歡的，是Muskat Zlty 2011，這支的葡萄來自斯洛伐克的Tokaj，手工採收，雖是甜白酒，顏色偏淡，卻有貴腐酒濃郁的果乾及蜜絲卡葡萄香氣，這樣都還不足以使我愛上這支酒，其特別之處再於入喉的後韻，有一股奶油般滑順的柔軟香草氣息，實在太特殊，我很想知道是什麼味道，但瓶身標註的是斯洛伐克文：medovo-koresistou，我要朋友翻譯給我聽她也說不出個所以然，現在想想，我應該要帶一支Muskat Zlty 2011回家珍藏的。

 

ELESKO是間相當有趣的葡萄酒莊，其蒐羅不只是中東歐相當受歡迎的葡萄品種與酒款(例如Palava跟Tokaj)，仔細觀察其商品錄，你也能找到蜜絲卡、夏多內、灰皮諾、白蘇維儂、麗絲玲等品種的葡萄酒。

這樣大規模的葡萄酒莊有好有壞，好在大量生產，品質易於控制，且正因其資本龐大，才能一次生產大量不同款式的葡萄酒。但是在習慣法國注重「地話」的葡萄酒後，ELESKO的葡萄酒似乎少了那麼點靈魂，缺少了手作與酒農的溫度，也是我發覺自己原來如此深愛著法國葡萄酒。

但是不管如何，ELESKO的現代化酒莊與藝廊，都相當推薦給對斯洛伐克葡萄酒有興趣的你，即使安排一天也好，從首都Bratislava到Modra，先逛逛這個可愛的葡萄酒小鎮，再搭計程車到ELESKO品飲葡萄酒，一窺斯洛伐克神秘的葡萄酒色彩。

ELESKO is a comprehensive winery, it produces not only the wine from Middle Europe, but also popular type of wines, such as Muscat, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling.

There’re both strength and weakness of this kind of big scale winery. With the great amount, you can easily control your quantity and quality. Comparatively speaking, the wines are bond to less spirit by missing  temperatures of hands, and the link with “terroir".

But no matter now, ELESKO is a very interesting and promising winery. Even just a day, it will be perfect to visit Modra, the little wine village, then to ELESKO park. Highly recommend to whom are interested in Slovakian wine.

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